This week we went to Córdoba to visit one of the most important olive oil mills in Spain: Almazaras de la Subbética. And of course, we took the opportunity to interview its director, José Antonio Nieto. José showed us every corner, told us about his projects, and even gave us an advanced tasting of olive oil. It was a fantastic visit in Priego de Córdoba, where we were also joined by Francisco Chacón, commercial director of Almazaras de la Subbética in Catalonia.
And now, without further ado, here’s the interview:
Do you think you’re obsessed with olive oil? Some have told me I should be in a mental institution.
How old were you when you started feeling passionate about olive oil? In an area like ours, where life revolves around olive groves, I imagine the passion runs through everyone’s veins. Some discover it earlier, others later. In my case, I was 26.
They say you have a privileged nose. Who taught you to taste olive oil? Don’t pay attention to those comments. They are unfounded rumors from people who care too much about me. Regarding tasting, due to special circumstances and having no other choice, I would say I was mostly self-taught, although there were always mentors in the sector who helped me, like Brígida Jiménez and Anuncia Carpio.
How many oils have you tasted this week? To be exact, 191 samples in 7 days.
What’s the key to getting Almazaras de la Subbética oils present in so many countries and winning so many awards? I like to say we are a 5P. Landscape, characterized by a mountainous olive grove. Everyone talks about the sea of olives in Jaén, but I always say ours is also a sea, but in tsunami mode. In this landscape, we find our Picuda and Hojiblanca varieties, and to a lesser extent, the Picual, all within the Natural Park of the Subbéticas Mountains.
People: olive growers who live for the world of olives. We are not just a two- or three-generation press; we are a society of over 4,000 families tied to this marvelous tree for over 2,000 years. Our ancestors knew how to work these difficult lands, and that legacy has reached us generation after generation. Hopefully, we can pass it on to future generations.
Professionals: A large part of our secret, besides the skill of our farmers who carefully handle the fruit from the field to the mill, lies in the high qualification and training of the technical staff, as well as the facilities where we carry out our work.
Product: That unique fruit, linked to the terroir of the D.O.P. Priego de Córdoba.
Passion: Could any of this be possible without Passion?
A large percentage of sales are made abroad. Why is that? Fortunately, the culture of EVOO is gaining followers worldwide every day. It’s a pleasure, a luxury for the senses to enjoy olive juice, and combined with the health concept, we have the perfect formula.
Would you like your children to take over the olive oil business when they grow up? I would like my children to dedicate themselves to whatever makes them happy, whatever puts the word Passion at the center of their lives.
Do you work a lot, right? That’s what my wife says, but as my grandfather also said: “Pleasure comes with effort…”
400,000 square meters of facilities with state-of-the-art machinery. That’s a huge investment in technology and maintenance. Yes, as I said, Almazaras de la Subbética is committed to having the best facilities to produce the best products.
How long does it take from harvesting the olives to selling them on origenoliva.com? If you put it on sale in August, wait, let me calculate: November, December, January… Just kidding. We try to shorten the times as much as possible. Milling takes place within hours of the olives arriving at the mill, and in some cases in real time: they arrive, fall into the hopper, and are ground. From that moment, we are ready to supply Origen Oliva.
Which olive oil are you most proud of? Mentioning my wife again, as she usually says: “You’ll see your other children,” how can I love one more than the others? Some are smarter, some more consistent. Each has its own creation moment, its birth, and its purpose, which the others may not fulfill.
How would you define Parqueoliva Gold Series? Ufff. A very intelligent child, very hard to raise, but once adult, a source of pride. Intense without being overwhelming, complex without being hard to understand.
And Alma Oliva Gran Selección? Constant, balanced, and tireless. A person with an average, pleasant profile, suitable for almost any use.
Rincón de la Subbética oil is praised worldwide. How would you describe it? Subtlety, elegance, and personality in abundance.
There is increasing demand for organic olive oil. Is Almazaras de la Subbética also committed to this? Yes, demand is growing every day, and we are aware of this trend, so we encourage our partners to transition to environmentally respectful organic farming.
Tell me a couple of competitor oils you like. You know? I’ve always thought oils reflect the personality of those who create them. I love Alfredo Berral; he’s calm and transmits serenity. Abbae de Queiles is perfect for relaxing moments. José Gálvez is dynamic, passionate, and always thinking of changes. For more intense moments, without a doubt, Oro Bailén.
Do you think Spain should provide more information about the health benefits of extra virgin olive oil? I think we need not just a little, but a lot more information. This sector has much work to do, and one of the main tasks is to make consumers aware that EVOO is almost like a walking medicine.
Accredited scientific studies confirm that quality extra virgin olive oil consumption can slow the development of breast cancer, for example. How does that make you feel? It makes me want to learn more, much more. I insist, we need to invest more in our doctors and researchers and share the results of their studies.
More than 4,000 families live off olive groves at Almazaras de la Subbética. How do you handle this responsibility? It’s a responsibility shared with an excellent team, from the President, Francisco Serrano, who has held the position for 37 years, to the newest member of the team.
And now, what’s the next project? We have many initiatives and want to keep expanding our collaborations with our partners (another P—maybe we’re up to 6P). We want to continue researching Alma Oliva EVOO to help Patatas Fritas San Nicasio and Chef José Andrés with frying their fabulous chips. Or with Comaxurros for reinventing churros fried in EVOO. Developing the best Organic Chocolates with our BIO range. Adjusting profiles to pair with Codesa Anchovies. Developing oils with Senén González for his omelets. Working with Juanjo Ruiz from La Salmoreteca to achieve the perfect blend in salmorejos. In short, exploring uses and enjoyment of EVOO for consumers, always seasoned with a touch of Passion.
